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Preston Family Farm

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So where do we go from here?

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Pádraig Ó Tuama offered up a lovely poem a few weeks back on Poetry Unbound, “The Cave” by Paul Tran, which touched the heart of the moment we find ourselves in right now. Everywhere we turn we face another precipice. Health. Climate. The economy. Truth itself has become a slippery slope as it careens across platforms, refracted like a broken funhouse mirror.

Tran’s poem begins “Someone standing at the mouth had the idea to enter.” In negating gender, and for that matter race and creed, reading Tran’s words I was struck with how little we actually know about these first humans, as individuals. One can imagine them looking up at the heavens to see which way the clouds were blowing, but they come down to us through history with no formal construct of God or country. We don’t know much about what defined their belief systems, what we do know is that struggling together, slowly growing their numbers, they survived, and ultimately thrived. Everyone alive today should be thankful that enough of them had a prevailing curiosity, a determination to continue discovering what lay before them in the dark, to keep the human race alive.

The poem describes “objects that couldn’t have found their way there alone: ocre-stained shelves, bird bones, grounded hematite.” And deeper still, “paintings on the walls of cows, bulls, bison, deer, horses, some pregnant, some slaughtered.” Though the word “bravery” is never mentioned it’s inconceivable their progress forward could have been made without it. And, crucially, another attribute all but a few of us seem to have lost: curiosity. “We need to continue to go into new caves, or caves we think are new,” Padraig concludes, “in order to mine the possibility of what it means to be human, together.”

What lies embedded in that last but essential word “together” is what we’re having so much trouble with now. As the pandemic and climate change make clear - whatever you think caused them - in order to survive ‘our’ existential threats we need to get beyond the noise and ask ourselves why it is so hard to get along. It does not reduce the meaning of our solitary journey through life or the choices we make as individuals to acknowledge (and honor) that all our explorations, our achievements, our sorrows and joys have more resonance when shared. Therein lies the urge to create tribe, family, community. And yes, party affiliation.

Americans think of themselves as brave; it’s something that’s drilled into us, decade after decade. We’re taught that “we” marched across a beautiful but perilous country and claimed it, planted it, and civilized it, all to the good.

What a beautiful country it was, yet how messy civilizing it has been, how cruel it continues to be when you honestly chart the journey. As we grouped, and then more formally segregated ourselves to protect what we had, we let those differences define us. When we raise our voices in choir, when it comes to breaking bread and celebrating family accomplishments and life’s milestones, tradition is thankfully what binds us to our sweetest moments. But when those differences divide us we are driven to protect… what? Whose truth? Whose status quo?

How can we create forums for conversation now that are not tainted with prejudice and the cruelty that flows from it? As a much older person to the child who once dutifully pledged allegiance “to the United States of America and to the republic for which it stands” before the start of every school day, I’m not convinced cruelty is endemic to the American experience, much less a necessary corollary to achievement. We are all vulnerable to resorting to angers fed by generational prejudices when frustration and hardship get the best of us. Perhaps it is human nature that seemingly insurmountable problems seem easier to grasp when there is someone to blame for our woes. But the corrosive emotions being deployed right now across our beautiful country in order to command our attention and allegiances may be drawing us into conflicts that do not serve us well.

As we sit in our caves now day after day watching flickering light from various media platforms, we are incurious they cast no shadow. What we do paint on our internet walls in posts and tweets is ephemeral, less than breadcrumbs, far from enlightening, infrequently uplifting, almost never poetic. These messages, our personal stories, compete and are increasingly overwhelmed by the images and words of strangers, inundating us, claiming our attention with the sole intent of trying to sell us something. A new dress, an energy drink, a mattress. A point of view.

Our ancestors built their fires for warmth and to cook food. When they came to paint what they knew of life, their shadows were alive on the walls of their caves; they were fully in command of the stories they told.

Which brings me back to curiosity. The problems we face may not be fundamentally all of our doing, but they will surely be our undoing if we do not resolve them, and soon. To be curious right now is the opposite of being certain. It’s also the opposite of being angry. We need to wonder who is selling us what, and why. Need to wonder how things might turn out if we are fully present right now and responsible, both to ourselves and our neighbors. To remember our actions define us more than our opinions.

In wishing you a joyful, if quieter Thanksgiving this year all of us here at Barndiva and the farm, and the farms and purveyor kitchens we rely upon express our gratitude for your custom and your continued support. When we are finally able to gather together again inside, a bit closer to the warmth of our kitchens, it will no doubt be a different world in hospitality. We’re curious how that might not be a bad thing. In every way we can we are imagining and working toward that future as we would construct a dish of many intriguing ingredients - looking for the most flavor, the truest return.

To keep working here, to protect what we love about this particular landscape, to work alongside people who respect that landscape as well is our goal. Hopefully, we can share that with you when we meet again.

Stay curious. Stay well.

A link to Pádraig reciting and talking about Paul Tran’s The Cave, on @onbeing.org & @poetryunbound.org, can be found here. Eat the View’s banner image this week of Lou’s walnuts drying was photographed in the Preston farmshop (@prestonfarmandwinery) . Use this link to their farm shop to order the walnuts or wine or the many other beautiful products Preston produces.

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The Cave”
Written by Paul Tran
Read by Pádraig Ó Tuama

Someone standing at the mouth had
the idea to enter. To go further

than light or language could
go. As they followed
the idea, light and language followed

like two wolves—panting, hearing themselves
panting. A shapeless scent
in the damp air …

Keep going, the idea said.

Someone kept going. Deeper and deeper, they saw
others had been there. Others had left

objects that couldn’t have found their way
there alone. Ocher-stained shells. Bird bones. Grounded
hematite. On the walls,

as if stepping into history, someone saw
their purpose: cows. Bulls. Bison. Deer. Horses—
some pregnant, some slaughtered.

The wild-
life seemed wild and alive, moving

when someone moved, casting their shadows
on the shadows stretching
in every direction. Keep going,

the idea said again. Go …

Someone continued. They followed the idea so far inside that
outside was another idea.

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Thanksgiving 2020

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Turns out Jordan Rosas, our extraordinary lead chef, who has deftly navigated Barndiva through Covid and the wildfires, is a passionate traditionalist. He loves Thanksgiving. Ditto his second in command, our imaginative pastry chef Neidy Venegas. Both grew up in large families and love big old-fashioned menus cooked from the heart. When we floated the idea of offering a feast for guests old and new this year, one they could enjoy at home, it didn’t take long for them to come up with a gorgeous menu of ready to warm dishes with a house-brined pasture-raised turkey you just pop in the oven, the better to get those roasting aromas going. It’s a menu that hits all the best Thanksgiving notes - with some delightful surprises.

We’ve never been opened on Thanksgiving before, in order to give our staff time with their families, but if there was ever was a year we break with that tradition this would be it. Travel will be difficult, gathering in large groups not advisable, and even sourcing the myriad of ingredients you love to include in this once-a-year meal may prove a challenge. All the more reason we’re looking forward to cooking every dish on this menu, which will be sourced entirely in Sonoma and Mendocino. It’s the best way we know to support the incredible food shed surrounding Healdsburg, and all who work within it. Yes, business is always about the bottom line; we choose not to draw ours in the sand, but in the soil.

Cook at Home Thanksgiving Feast can be booked online by going to our website, Barndiva.com. It will be available for pick up at Studio Barndiva on Wednesday, November 25, from 12-6 and on Thanksgiving day until noon.

Chef Jordan Rosas and Pastry Chef Neidy Venegas. The beautiful squash, pumpkins, and flours Neidy will use to bake her biscuits, pound cakes and pies were all grown at Preston Family Farm in Dry Creek Valley. Filberts, most chestnuts and all apple products are from Barndiva Farm in Philo.

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Tomato Season

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The less cooking you do in summer, the better, especially true when it comes to tomatoes, summer's sexpot that swings both ways - as fruit or vegetable. Sweet, with subtle acidity, unless you are going for sauce the trick is not to overcook them. The less you fuss with them the better, and while bruschetta and a perfect caprese are rites of passage in summer, it's great to stretch for new combinations. 

"Look at this,” Ryan said as he sliced through the translucent skin of a huge heirloom Amana. The flesh of the yellow tomato glistened like it was oozing sunlight. He was cutting beautiful Kinsella Vineyard heirlooms for a quick salad, fanning them across the platter before reaching for a container of tiny jewel colored flowers from Early Birds Place - borage, Johnny jump-ups, bachelor buttons and marigolds. The shot had almost too much color in the frame - do I sound like I am complaining? I am not. It was a marriage made in heaven. We did not even dress the salad. It was that good.

Early and Myrna try and grow the flowers separately, important as we’ve found when grown as a ‘mix’  individual flavors tend to bland out. Edible flowers have a surprising diversity; there was a gentle bite to these, which played off the sweetness of the tomatoes, heightening the flavor of both ingredients. 

 

 For a tomato dish with a little heat,  I shot the heirloom tomato soup that’s currently on the menu - which Ryan plated with a single, perfect lobster filled ravioli. 

Pancho is our consummate ravioli guy whether the filling is a single egg yolk, lobster or spicy Preston lamb. He's just got the touch. His beautiful brown hands fly over the table as he rolls, stretches, and cuts, making each little bundle seal perfectly with the thinest carapace of pasta dough.

 

Our heirloom tomato soup has hints of garlic and sherry vinegar, nothing to mask the full bodied flavor of this incredible summer 'fruit.' Concentric circles of EVO and chive sour cream and that lobster ravioli with a few shavings of pecorino finish the dish.

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God I love summer.

barndiva reading of the week

seaweed farmer speaks out 

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Exciting News!

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Saveur

EAT THE VIEW won the most votes in the documentary category in Saveur Magazine’s Video Festival last week, taking home the People's Choice Award.

How cool is that? Very! In addition to bragging rights (Saveur’s Editor-in-Chief and Top Chef Masters judge James Oseland commended us for a video that “really stood out to us for strong sense of place and story”), we will be getting a check for $250 which will go directly into the video kitty. Making EAT THE VIEW with Drew and the crew was a joy. It is ganache on the cake to have been recognized in this fashion.

To each and every one of you WHO TOOK THE TIME TO VOTE  ~ THANK YOU! We are especially grateful to the social media mavens who helped get the word out ~ Carey Sweet, Elizabeth Cosin, Tod Brilliant, Scott Keneally, John Mamus, you are the best! E.A.T. (all the way in Richmond, Virginia) thank you for your infectious support. As for our co-stars, a shout out to Preston Family Farm, all the guys at MIX, and the Callahan’s and Lenny at Bellwether, who also urged folks to vote through their websites and blogs. Drew and I are sincerely grateful for the continued support we’ve felt on this project ~ with a special nod to the indomitable K2’s, who entered us in the competition and kept the energy flowing. As a result more people will come to know what we mean by eating the view here in Healdsburg.

Saveur is running all the winning videos on their site.

All text Jil Hales. All photos Jil Hales, Dawid Jaworski.

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Introducing...

Our food... on film!

We made a movie because we could, because someone around here asked us to (I think it was Chef), because the words ‘farm to table’ started appearing everywhere, which was good, until it wasn’t. Like the use of the words 'organic' and ‘artisan’, it's begun to feel a bit promiscuous. There are incredible people behind each and every plate of food we send out into the dining room and it’s a beautiful thing to know who they are. If it helps fill the restaurant, to keep us all employed doing what we love, that’s great. Reminding ourselves why we fell in love in the first place is even better.

We call the blog (and now the movie) Eat the View because no one really knows straight away what that means until we explain, pointing out the window. It is time well spent. But eating the view isn’t just about food. Everything we take in needs a bit of time to be properly digested ~ broken down into a nutritious soup that keeps the human engine humming.

These are the people and animals and plants which keep our engines humming. Enjoy. And if you are so inclined, pass it on.

[vimeo http://www.vimeo.com/43933864 w=500&h=281]

Written & Produced: Jil Hales Directed & Filmed: Drew Kelly

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Susan Preston ~ One Button Off

(Originally posted November 17, 2010)

All of Healdsburg turned out for the opening night of Susan Preston's one woman show ~ One Button Off~ last Friday evening. Thanks to an insane Barndiva cocktail called The Contortionist and a surfeit of always wonderful Preston wines, no one seemed to mind the wall to wall crowds. (We apologize to any of our guests who did not get to taste the spicy chopped Mediterranean salad we served on Lou's baguettes or our crispy tempura string beans.)

It was, in short, a great night.

Best part of the evening: the party atmosphere did not stop folks from taking the time to slowly view this extraordinary show.

One Button Off will be on exhibit through the month of December in Studio Barndiva.

 

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